Possible causes and solutions :

The wood that your are using is too humid.

Solution : Make sure you use good, seasoned wood. The wood you burn plays an important role in the overall performance of your heater. Your wood should have been properly dried for approximately one year. Storage is also key. Wood that has been cut for one, two or even more years, will not necessarily be dry if it has been stored in poor conditions. Under extreme conditions, it may have rotten instead of drying. Smaller pieces of wood will dry faster. The wood should be stored in a place where the grass is not too long, and where the wind will be able to circulate between the logs. A 12" to 24" gap should be kept between the cords. The wood should be placed in the sunniest area and should be protected from the rain and the snow on top, but not the sides.

The air control mechanism is not open enough.

Solution : Adjust the air control mechanism in order to keep the flue temperature within the comfort zone (between 250^oF and 475^oF) on your chimney thermometer. The air control mechanism must always be closed gradually. You need to obtain a good bed of red embers and the logs must be completely lit up before you close the air control completely. This can easily take up to one hour. If you do not have a chimney thermometer and would like to get one, please consult our "accessories" section.

The logs that you are using are too big.

Solution : Use smaller pieces of wood and place them to allow proper air circulation between the logs. The same weight of wood cut in many small pieces will produce more heat than fewer, larger logs. Only add big logs when you have a good bed of red embers. Logs with a diameter exceeding 6 inches should always be split. Avoid stacking logs to the top of the firebox.

The chimney draft is too weak.

Solution #1 : In many cases, a weak draft is simply due to insufficient heat in the exhaust system. Build a small, intense fire, and leave the door ajar (never leave the heater unattended). Before inserting larger logs, use dry kindling to obtain a good bed of red embers. Gradually increase the size of the logs. Close the unit's door when you reach a flue temperature of approximately 475^oF on the chimney thermometer. Leave the air intake fully open for approximately 15 minutes. Then, gradually close the air intake control. Note that there is no danger in letting the temperature inside the flue reach approximately 700^oF during start-up. This is even favourable in order to properly start your heater. You must however avoid to maintain excessive temperatures (above the comfort zone on your thermometer) during a long period of time. Your chimney thermometer should be positioned on the exhaust pipe, approximately 18 inches above the unit. If you do not have a chimney thermometer and would like to get one, please consult our "accessories" section.

Solution #2 : Your heater may not have all the oxygen it needs to allow for a sufficient draft. You first need to insure that the room where the unit is located is sufficiently large and well ventilated. Open the nearest window by approximately 2 inches. If you notice a significant improvement, it is a sign that the units needs more oxygen. The room may be too insulated or too small. Without an additional source of oxygen, the draft will remain weak and cause the fire to go out.

Solution #3 : The chimney may be too short. In order to obtain a sufficient draft, your chimney must have a minimum height. A minimum height of 12 feet (from the top of the heater to the end of the chimney) will generally provide a sufficient draft. PLEASE NOTE: Longer is not always better. A chimney that is excessively long may be difficult to warm-up and control.

Solution #4 : Your exhaust system may be too tortuous or may lack a sufficiently steep slope. Ideally, your exhaust system should not have more than one 90^o elbow. Furthermore, all horizontal sections should be as short as possible and have a minimum slope of ¼" per foot.

Solution #5 : Your exhaust system may be oversized. When your chimney is oversized, the volume of air that needs to be warmed-up is larger. It is therefore difficult to reach temperatures that will allow for a sufficient draft. Most EPA certified heaters have a 6" flue outlet (152mm). If your exhaust system does not have a 6" diameter, you can insert a stainless liner with a 6" diameter inside the exhaust system. Non-EPA heaters often have a flue outlet that varies from 6" to 8". Insert a liner with a diameter equal to the unit's flue outlet.