Your appliance is not designed to burn corn. The combustion of corn requires mechanical and electronic adjustments. Without those adjustments, corn combustion may cause the appliance to overheat, malfunction, or wear out prematurely. Consult your owner’s manuals for the type of pelletized fuel that may be used with your appliance.

You can vent your stove through a masonry chimney. It is important that the masonry chimney be built in compliance with the specifications of the National Building Code or other applicable standard having jurisdiction. It must be lined with fire clay bricks, metal or clay tiles sealed together with fire cement. The minimum venting requirement will be the installation of a stainless steel liner from the stove to the extremity of the chimney. Given the elevation for this type of installation, a 4-inch diameter is normally required. Using a fire screen at the extremity of the chimney requires regular inspection in order to insure that it is not obstructed thus blocking the draught. It should be cleaned when necessary.

The quality of the pellets used will first have an impact on ignition. Pellets with a high moisture content can cause a failed or delayed ignition. Make sure that you always store your fuel in a dry area. As far as combustion goes, a pellet with a high ash content will allow the formation of a crust inside the burn pot, which will require more frequent cleaning. Moreover, incomplete combustion can lead to the clogging of the burn pot, which will cause the appliance to shut down. Make sure you use pellets for residential purposes with a premium or super-premium grade. The ash content should be equal or lower than 1% and should be certified by the pellet manufacturer. It should be clearly marked on the bag. Certain pellet stoves have a burner designed for the use of higher-ash pellets. The main characteristic of those burners is that the combustion residues are pushed out of the burn area as the fuel gets consumed, therefore preventing any significant ash accumulation. In our industry jargon, this technology is often referred to as bottom feed.

For all pellet stoves, the same type of venting is used from the appliance connector to the exterior of the house. It is commonly called a type L pellet vent. This type of flue is designed with a double wall. It is made of stainless steel inside and galvanized steel outside. Air between the two walls is what provides the insulation. In Canada, pellet vent is certified to ULC-S609-M89/ORD-C441. In the United States, it is certified to UL-641. Pellet stoves generally require a 3-inch or 4-inch diameter. A 4-inch diameter is normally recommended for installations with a high elevation. For high-output appliances, a 4-inch vent may be the only diameter allowed. Consult your owner’s manual in order to find out what vent diameter is recommended for your model.

Unfortunately, this is not possible. All our appliances are produced on an assembly line according to very strict specifications. The door hinges are welded on one side only. Furthermore, the other side of the door opening has a latch assembly that is not movable.

First, it is important to mention that the efficiency calculation is not mandatory in North America. Manufacturers that have tested their appliances to the EPA Standard must report a "default" efficiency on the little white EPA tag that must be affixed to the appliance. This is why you will see a 63% efficiency rating on that EPA tag. The real efficiency of EPA-certified units, however, is normally between 70% and 85%. It is possible for manufacturers to test their appliances for efficiency. Manufacturers that report an efficiency rating higher than 63% have probably had their appliances tested through an independent laboratory. Although there exist more than one efficiency calculation method, the one generally recognized by North American manufacturers is the Canadian CSAB415.1 method. Our appliances have all had their efficiency tested per that method. You will notice that the vast majority of our appliances have an efficiency rating between 70% and 85%.

Yes. A floor protection is required for any pellet stove, unless the floor in front and on the side of the unit is already made of a non-combustible material (ex: concrete). You have many choices, such as stone, brick, cement board, or tile. You need to consult your owner's manual in order to know the dimensions of the floor protection specific to your model. In Canada, the floor protection must extend at least 18 inches (460 mm) in front of the door opening and at least 8 inches (205 mm) at the back and on each side of the appliance.  In the USA, the floor protection must extend in front of the unit by at least 6 inches. It must also extend beyond each side of the door opening by at least 6 inches.  The floor protector needs a minimum thickness of 0.015" (0.38 mm).

A fresh air intake is not mandatory for your pellet stove, unless the unit is installed in a mobile home or if the local building code or the manufacturer require it. Pellet stoves use a mechanical draft. Combustion air is forced into the unit using combustion and/or exhaust motors. In the case of a very air-tight house, it may be difficult to replace the combustion air expulsed outside the residence. This could lead to a poor combustion. In this case, the installation of a fresh air intake is strongly recommended. However, if the stove is installed in an open room, in a house that is more or less air-tight, combustion air will normally be easily replaced. In this case, the installation of a fresh air intake is not required. It must however be noted that a fresh air intake, even if it is not mandatory, will always provide the advantage of better balancing the house with regards to combustion air.

Before answering this question, it is very important that you clearly identify what your needs are. Some people will buy a heater simply to enhance the ambiance of a room, while others will buy a heater as their main source of heat. There is no good or bad reason for buying a wood-heat system. If you simply want to enhance the ambiance of a room, most small to medium size heaters will suit your needs. Simply chose the style you like best, and put the unit in the room where you spend the most time. The heat and look of a glowing fire will create an atmosphere of warmth and coziness.

If your primary need is heat, you must verify the heating capacity of your heater based on the technical data provided by the manufacturer. For instance, if you want to heat an 800 square foot area on one floor, you need to buy a heater with a minimum capacity of 800 sq. ft.

If you need to heat more than one floor, keep in mind that heat rises. Therefore, a heater located in your basement will help you heat the main floor as well. However, the contrary is not true; a heater located on the main floor (ground floor) will not heat the basement. Keep in mind also that the more divisions there are in the house, the harder it will be to distribute the heat evenly.

If you need to heat two floors, calculate the surface of the lower floor. Then, add 50% of the surface of the upper floor. For instance, if you install a wood-heating system in the basement and you have 800 sq.ft., you will need a heater with a minimum capacity of 1,200 sq.ft. (800 + 400 = 1,200).

If you need to heat more than two floors, calculate the surface of the lower floor (where the wood-heating system is located). Then, add 50% of the surface of the middle floor, and 25% of the surface of the upper floor. For instance, if you install a heater in the basement and you have 800 sq.ft., you will need a heater with a minimum capacity of 1,400 sq.ft. (800+400+200= 1,400). Consult the drawing below. It will help you understand the explanations provided in this section.

REMEMBER:  We are talking about "zone" heating, not central heating. The room where the heater is located and the rooms directly above it will always reach higher temperatures than the rooms distant from the unit. If you want an even temperature throughout the house, you need to consider a central heating system, such as a warm air wood furnace. Furthermore, you must keep in mind that the size of the heater you need may vary based on the insulation of your house, its exposition to wind, and the number of windows. It will always be prudent to buy a heater with a capacity that is slightly higher than the minimum capacity that you need. For instance, if you need a minimum capacity of 1,400 sq.ft., it will be more prudent to buy a heater with a capacity of 1,600 sq.ft., if not 1,800 sq.ft. There are three main advantages in buying a larger appliance: the increased heating capacity, the ease of loading more and larger logs (as a result of the greater firebox volume), and the increased combustion time (given the higher loading capacity). 

The drawing above gives an example of the minimum heating capacity required for a wood-heating system installed in a house with three floors of 800 sq.ft. each. We assume that the house is well insulated and that air can circulate between each floor through an open stairway and/or floor traps.

The Hunter wood stove is not certified since its usage is strictly limited to recreational purposes and it not designed to be installed in a home. All other heaters manufactured by SBI are certified as per the latest applicable American and Canadian safety standards. Those standards are developed and published by various organizations, such as CSA (Canadian Standard Association), UL/ULC (Underwriters Laboratories / Underwriters Laboratories of Canada), and ASTM (American Society for Testing and Materials). An independent laboratory is responsible for testing each model as per the applicable standards.  ETL - Intertek Testing Services (also known as Warnock Hersey) and Omni Test Laboratories are the independent labs most frequently used and their name generally appears on the certification label attached to the side or back of each heater.

All EPA-certified wood heaters meet the latest emissions standards required by EPA (Environmental Protection Agency).  Each EPA-certified heater has been tested for emissions by an independent laboratory.

The Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design (LEED) Green Building Rating System™ encourages and accelerates global adoption of sustainable green building and development practices through the creation and implementation of universally understood and accepted tools and performance criteria. LEED is a third-party certification program and an internationally accepted benchmark for the design, construction and operation of high performance green buildings. It provides building owners and operators the tools they need to have an immediate and measurable impact on their buildings’ performance.

The Canadian Green Building Council (CGBC) certifies LEED projects. The Certification is based on the total point score achieved, following an independent review and an audit of selected Credits. With four possible levels of certification (certified, silver, gold and platinum), LEED® is flexible enough to accommodate a wide range of green building strategies that best fit the constraints and goals of particular projects. The Canadian rating systems are an adaptation of the US Green Building Council's (USGBC) LEED Green Building Rating System, tailored specifically for Canadian climates, construction practices and regulations. The rating systems are adapted to the Canadian market through an inclusive process that engages stakeholders and experts representing the various sectors of the Canadian industry.

Wood or pellet stoves, fireplaces, and inserts can qualify under LEED and obtain up to one point provided that they meet the
following criteria.

Under section 3.3 - Hazardous Locations of the CSA B365 Installation Code for Solid-Fuel-Burning Appliances and Equipment, the following language standards can be found:

"An appliance shall not be installed in a location where a corrosive atmosphere, flammable gas or vapour, combustible dust, or combustible fibres may be present. An appliance may be installed in a

(a) storage or residential garage, provided that the appliance is mounted at least 450 mm (18 in) above floor level and protected against physical damage;…"

In other words, if your garage is an environment where no combustible material or dust/vapour (chemical, fuel, or otherwise) is present, you may be able to use a solid fuel burning appliance. It is recommended to always check with your insurance company before installing your heater in a garage.