This high-performance insert will bring new life to your old masonry fireplace while warming up the interior of your home. Equipped with a secondary combustion system unmatched on the market, this mid-sized unit delivers up to 65,000 BTU/h with a very low carbon footprint; only 1.26 g/h!
A 29" x 44" black faceplate and a premium blower are included with the unit. A fresh air intake kit and a rigid firescreen are available as options.
APPROVED FOR THE ISLAND OF MONTREAL
Government incentives may apply to this product.
5"Ø FRESH AIR INTAKE KIT OVAL
Recommended to reduce or eliminate negative pressure problems. Fits on some insert models.
From USD $59.00 MSRP
5"Ø X 10' INSULATED FLEX PIPE FOR FRESH AIR INTAKE KIT
Certified according to ULC S110/UL 181, this insulated flexible air duct is composed of four (4) layers of polyester encapsulating a galvanized wire; all assembled with a flame retardant adhesive. Fully water repellent, the duct is corrosion resistant as well as high static pressure thanks to the unique four-layer lamination process and wall thickness. The insulation contains no hazardous substances that may pose a health hazard.
From USD $60.00 MSRP
5"Ø X 25' INSULATED FLEX PIPE FOR FRESH AIR INTAKE KIT
From USD $95.00 MSRP
5"Ø X 4' INSULATED FLEX PIPE FOR FRESH AIR INTAKE KIT
Reinforced aluminized trilaminate with fiberglass insulation. Fits on some adapter models for fresh air intake kit with a diameter of 5 ". Length: 4 feet.
From USD $25.00 MSRP
5''Ø FRESH AIR INTAKE REGISTER WITH AIRTIGHT DAMPER
This device opens and closes the fresh air supply to a wood or pellet heating appliance being certified with a 5" fresh air intake kit. Its simple mechanism makes it possible to close the damper tightly when the heating appliance is not in operation.
From USD $140.00 MSRP
6"Ø X 25' VORTEX STAINLESS FLEX LINER KIT FOR INSERTS
Kit Includes: a 25’ flexible liner, a 13" x 13" no leak top plate, an insert connector and a quick cap with no screen.
From USD $299.00 MSRP
6"Ø X 35' VORTEX STAINLESS FLEX LINER KIT FOR INSERTS
Kit Includes: a 35’ flexible liner, a 13" x 13" no leak top plate, an insert connector and a quick cap with no screen.
From USD $429.00 MSRP
OFFSET LINER ADAPTOR
Allows your flexible liner to be offset to the rear of an insert outlet.
From USD $149.00 MSRP
Adhesives, gaskets and insulation
HIGH TEMPERATURE RED SILICONE (300 mL- 10.1 FL.OZ.)
A premium quality 100% silicone sealant that stays permanently flexible. Suitable for sealing around oven windows, flues on gas appliances, joints and metal stacks and ductwork. An excellent gasket maker to replace existing cork and felt rubber. Ideal for holding gaskets around stove and fireplace doors. Oxygen sensor safe. Withstands continuous temperatures up to 260°C or 500°F.
HIGH TEMPERATURE CLEAR SILICONE (300 mL - 10.1 FL.OZ.)
A premium quality 100% silicone sealant that stays permanently flexible. Suitable for sealing around oven windows, flues on gas appliances, joints and metal stacks and ductwork. An excellent gasket maker to replace existing cork and felt rubber. Ideal for holding gaskets around stove and fireplace doors. Oxygen sensor safe. Withstands continuous temperatures up to 204°C or 400°F.
ASH VACUUM CLEANER
Conforms to UL STD. 1017. Certified to CSA STD. C22.2 No. 243-10. Avoid ending prematurely the life of your vacuum cleaner by using the ideal tool to suck up the completely cooled ashes of your wood or pellet appliance. Designed almost exclusively for ash collection, this ash vacuum cleaner will offer several years of service with proper care. Power: 800 W.
6" ROUND BRUSH WITH POLYPROPYLENE BRISTLES (3/8" NPT)
Ideal to prevent creosote build-up inside the chimney.
PULL RING (3/8" NPT)
Useful to connect to brushes such as brushes #AC04500, #AC04501 and #AC04502.
5' FIBREGLASS ROD (3/8'' NPT)
Easy to assemble. Fiberglass rod. Finished with a heavy metal male and female fitting.
KEVLAR THREAD WOOD STOVE AND FIREPLACE GLOVES
Recommended for a clean and safe use of any type of wood-burning appliance. Fire-resistant kevlar sewings.
19" KEVLAR THREAD SEWN FIREPLACE GLOVES
Thermal protective gloves with long cuffs (19" or 48 cm):
- Ideal for stove, fireplace and barbecue
- Highly resistant to high temperatures
- Genuine leather and kevlar seams for increased durability
- Maximum protection against all heat sources (covers the entire forearm)
- Strong and flexible glove with reinforcement at the level of the hand
- One-sized with cotton lining for comfort
- Practical leather support buckle
DIGITAL MOISTURE READER
Accurately and professionally measures moisture in wood logs.
WOOD AND PARAFFIN FIRE STARTER CUBES
• Only made from wood and paraffin wax without additional
chemicals (like formaldehyde)
• Safe, odorless, soot less, strong burning
• Easy to handle and easy to use
• Can be stored indefinitely and does not dry out
• Burn for 12 minutes
Need help lighting your fire? Get this economical set of fire starters that includes the3following items that are effective, safe, odorless, easy to handle and easy to use: a box of 50 paraffin sachet pouches (AC02597), a box of 24 wood and paraffin sticks (AC02598). Pre-cut sticks with ignition head on the bottom and ignition surface on the package that burns up to 8 minutes and a box of 50 wood and paraffin cubes without chemicals (such as formaldehyde) that does not produce soot. These cubes can be stored indefinitely without risk of drying out. Generates a strong burn with burn time up to 12 minutes.
Appliance performance (2)
|Fuel type||Dry cordwood|
|Recommended heating area (sq.ft.) ()||500 - 1,800|
|Overall firebox volume||1.9|
|Maximum burn time ()||6 h|
|Maximum heat output (dry cordwood) (3)||65,000 BTU/h (19 kW)|
|Overall heat output rate (min. to max.) (3) (4)||15,650 BTU/h (4.6 kW) to 23,300 BTU/h (6.83 kW)|
|Average overall efficiency (EPA cribs / Douglas fir) (4)||N.A. (HHV) (5)||N.A. (LHV) (6)|
|Average overall efficiency (dry cordwood) (4)||70 % (HHV) (5)||75 % (LHV) (6)|
|Optimum efficiency (7) (8)||78 %|
|Average particulate emissions rate (1)||1.26 g/h|
|Average CO (9)||58 g/h|
(1) This appliance is officially tested and certified by an independent agency.
(2) Values are as measured per test method, except for the recommended heating area, firebox volume, maximum burn time and maximum heat output.
() Recommended heating area and maximum burn time may vary subject to location in home, chimney draft,heat loss factors, climate, fuel type and other variables. The recommended heated area for a given appliance is defined by the manufacturer as its capacity to maintain a minimum acceptable temperature in the designated area in case of a power failure.
(3) The maximum heat output (dry cordwood) is based on a loading density varying between 15 lb/ft³ and 20 lb/ft³. Other performances are based on a fuel load prescribed by the standard. The specified loading density varies between 7 lb/ft³ and 12 lb/ft³. The moisture content is between 19% and 25%.
(4) As measured per CSA B415.1-10 stack loss method.
(5) Higher Heating Value of the fuel.
(6) Lower Heating Value of the fuel.
(7) Performances based on a fuel load prescribed by the standard at 7 lb/ft³ and with a moisture content between 19% and 25%.
(8) Optimum overall efficiency at a specific burn rate (LHV).
(9) Carbon monoxyde.
|High-efficiency EPA certified appliance||Yes, EPA 2020 approved|
|Maximum log length||18"|
|Log positioning||Over width|
|Flue outlet diameter||6"|
|Type of chimney||Liner - ULC-S635, CAN/ULC-S640, UL1777|
|Minimum chimney height (feet)||15'|
|Baffle type||High quality vermiculite|
|Approved for an alcove installation||N.A.|
|Approved for a mobile home installation||No|
|Door type||Single, glass with cast iron frame|
|Glass type||Ceramic glass|
|Glass surface – dimensions (Width X Height)||15 3/4" x 9 3/4"|
|Glass air-wash system||Yes|
|Premium quality blower included (CFM)||144|
|Overall dimension (Height)||21 1/4"|
|Overall dimension (Width)||27 1/4"|
|Overall dimension (Depth)||22 3/8"|
|Door opening – dimension (Height)||8 3/4"|
|Door opening - dimension (Width)||17 1/4"|
|Firebox – dimension (Height)||11 7/8"|
|Firebox – dimension (Width)||19 5/8"|
|Firebox – dimension (Depth)||13 1/2"|
|Firebox lined with refractory bricks for better heat distribution||Yes|
|Stainless-steel secondary-air system improving gas combustion||Yes|
|Adjustable threaded legs||Yes|
|Steel thickness – body||3/16"|
|Steel thickness – top||5/16"|
|Fireplace opening – minimum (Height)||21 1/2"|
|Fireplace opening – minimum (Width)||27 1/2"|
|Fireplace opening – minimum (Depth)||12 3/4"|
|USA standard (emissions)||EPA|
|Canadian Standard (emissions)||CSA B415.1-10|
|USA standard (safety)||UL 1482, UL 737|
|Canadian standard (safety)||ULC S628|
|Tested and listed as per applicable standards||By an accredited laboratory (CAN/USA)|
Minimum clearances to combustibles*
(Data expressed in inches. 1 inch = 25.4 mm)
|Clearance – top (measured from the platform on which the appliance is installed)**||84"||84"|
|Clearance – combustible side mantle to unit||9"||9"|
|Clearance – combustible top mantle to unit||27"||27"|
|Clearance – combustible side wall to unit||16"||16"|
|Clearance – minimum floor protection in front of the appliance||18"||16"|
* The information given on the certification label affixed to the appliance always overrides the information published in any other media (owner's manual, catalogues, flyers, magazines and/or web sites).
** Some appliances have been tested with a low ceiling. Before setting up your unit, refer to the installation manual.
Why does the glass get sooty?
Possible causes and solutions:
1- The moisture content of your wood is too high.
Solution: Make sure you use good, seasoned cord wood. The wood you burn plays an important role in the overall performance of your heater. Your wood should have been properly dried for approximately one year. Storage is also key. Wood that has been cut for one, two or even more years, will not necessarily be dry if it has been stored in poor conditions. Under extreme conditions, it may have rotten instead of drying. Smaller pieces of wood will dry faster. The wood should be stored in a place where the grass is not too long, and where the wind will be able to circulate between the logs. A 12-inch gap should be kept between the cords. The wood should be placed in the sunniest area and should be protected from the rain and snow on top, but not on the sides. Use a moisture reader to measure the moisture content of your wood. Ideally, it should be below 25%.
2- The logs are positioned too close to the glass and are obstructing the air flow that is necessary to keep the glass clean.
Solution: Make sure to keep a minimum gap of 2 inches between the logs and the glass.
3- The chimney draft is too weak.
Solution #2: Your heater may not have all the oxygen it needs to allow for a sufficient draft. You first need to insure that the room where the heater is located is sufficiently large and well ventilated. Open the nearest window by approximately 2 inches. If you notice a significant improvement, it is a sign that the unit needs more oxygen. The room may be too insulated or too small. Without an additional source of oxygen, the draft will remain weak and cause the glass stay dirty.
Solution #4: Your exhaust system may be too tortuous or may lack a sufficiently steep slope. Ideally, your exhaust system should not have more than one 90° elbow. Furthermore, all horizontal sections should be as short as possible and have a minimum slope of ¼" per foot.
Is the smoke produced during the paint curing process harmful?
Most high-temperature paints react in the same way. There are two resins in the paint. One resin dries at room temperature, giving the paint the initial properties seen on a brand new stove. Then, when fires are built in the stove, this air-dry resin burns away. The other resin is a silicon resin (silicone gives the paint its high heat resistance) that will not cure until the appliance is heated at high temperatures. This occurs at around 400 °F – 450 °F. The air dry resin will burn away at about 600 °F.
We recommend a two-stage curing process. Do not burn at full heat (keep temperature below 900 °F) for the first two burns as this could “shock” the paint and cause damage. Paint may peel or discolor. The initial fire should be made at a medium temperature (450 °F) for about 60 minutes. As the paint heats-up, it will soften and even appear wet. It should not be touched with anything. Gradually, on the hottest spots (usually near the flue and working outwards) the paint will again appear dry. When this process is completed, the paint will be ready for the next stage.
A second, hotter burn of around 600 °F for another 45 minutes will burn away the air-dry resin. You will know when this occurs because the process creates some smoke and odour. The non-toxic smoke is primarily carbon dioxide, but there are other residual components that make it smell bad and may cause physical distress for some individuals or animals. This is why we recommend keeping the space vacant and ventilated. Until the second stage is reached, the curing process will be incomplete.
Paint may appear to be a little glossy when first applied. High heat will cause all liquid paint to lose its glossy appearance.
How do I reduce the amount of charcoal my heater produces?
Appliances that are EPA or CSAB415.1 certified tend to create larger coal beds due to their higher efficiency. This can be controlled by the way you burn your appliance. After an overnight burn, you may have a more significant coal bed. Simply rake the coal bed forward and add a smaller piece of wood on top. Burn the appliance on a higher setting (air control fully open). This will pull more primary air into the firebox and will increase draft. The coal bed will burn down with the log. You may have to repeat this operation a couple of times before the coals are reduced. You are then ready to load your appliance with a larger fuel load.
Do I need an EPA certified or CSAB415.1-10 certified heater?
You first have to identify what your needs are. If you are looking for ambiance, a temporary heat source in a cottage or a camp, or a simple back-up heat source in case of power failure, you do not necessarily need to invest more money in order to buy an EPA or CSAB415.1-10 certified wood heater. However, if your goal is to heat on a regular basis, the extra dollars will prove to be a good investment. Furthermore, it must be noted that certified heaters release up to 90% less particles into the atmosphere, which makes wood a renewable and clean source of heat. As a result, if the style and size of the heater you are looking for is available in a certified version, it is highly recommended that you invest in this advanced combustion technology. You will help the environment and reduce your wood consumption by up to 30%.
NOTE: If you live in the United Sates, British Columbia, Ontario, Quebec, Nova Scotia, New Brunswick or Newfoundland, EPA certified wood heaters are mandatory. Exceptions apply for certain categories of products, such as decorative fireplaces. Certain municipalities may also have by-laws that require the installation of an EPA or CSAB415.1-10 wood heater, even though the province does not have an official regulation on wood heating. It must also be noted that in Canada, the CSAB415.1-10 Standard is equivalent to the EPA Standard. A wood heater that meets this Standard will generally comply with the regulation in place.
How do I determine the size of heater I need and where should I install it?
Before answering this question, it is very important that you clearly identify what your needs are. Some people will buy a heater simply to enhance the ambiance of a room, while others will buy a heater as their main source of heat. There is no good or bad reason for buying a wood-heat system. If you simply want to enhance the ambiance of a room, most small to medium size heaters will suit your needs. Simply chose the style you like best, and put the unit in the room where you spend the most time. The heat and look of a glowing fire will create an atmosphere of warmth and coziness.
If your primary need is to heat, you must verify the heating capacity of your heater based on the technical data provided by the manufacturer. For instance, if you want to heat an 800-square-foot area on one floor, you need to buy a heater with a minimum capacity of 800 sq. ft.
If you need to heat more than one floor, keep in mind that heat rises. Therefore, a heater located in your basement will help you heat the main floor as well. However, the contrary is not true; a heater located on the main floor (ground floor) will not heat the basement. Keep in mind also that the more divisions there are in the house, the harder it will be to distribute the heat evenly.
If you need to heat two floors, calculate the surface of the lower floor. Then, add 50% of the surface of the upper floor. For instance, if you install a wood-heating system in the basement and you have 800 sq.ft., you will need a heater with a minimum capacity of 1,200 sq.ft. (800 + 400 = 1,200.
If you need to heat more than two floors, calculate the surface of the lower floor (where the wood-heating system is located). Then, add 50% of the surface of the middle floor, and 25% of the surface of the upper floor. For instance, if you install a heater in the basement and you have 800 sq.ft., you will need a heater with a minimum capacity of 1,400 sq.ft. (800+400+200= 1,400). Consult the drawing below. It will help you understand the explanations provided in this section.
REMEMBER: We are talking about "zone" heating, not central heating. The room where the heater is located and the rooms directly above it will always reach higher temperatures than the rooms distant from the unit. If you want an even temperature throughout the house, you need to consider a central heating system, such as a warm air wood furnace. Furthermore, you must keep in mind that the size of the heater you need may vary based on the insulation of your house, its exposure to wind, and the number of windows. It will always be prudent to buy a heater with a capacity that is slightly higher than the minimum capacity that you need. For instance, if you need a minimum capacity of 1,400 sq.ft., it will be more prudent to buy a heater with a capacity of 1,600 sq.ft., if not 1,800 sq.ft. There are three main advantages in buying a larger appliance: the increased heating capacity, the ease of loading more and larger logs (as a result of the greater firebox volume), and the increased combustion time (given the higher loading capacity).
The drawing above gives an example of the minimum heating capacity required for a wood-heating system installed in a house with three floors of 800 sq.ft. each. We assume that the house is well insulated and that air can circulate between each floor through an open stairway and/or floor traps.
Why is the efficiency as per the EPA’s test data smaller than the publicized optimum efficiency?
EPA refers to the CSAB415.1-10 standard for the calculation of the appliance’s efficiency. The efficiency reported as per EPA’s directives consists of an average between four different burn rates, ranging from the lowest burn rate (air intake completely closed) to the highest burn rate (air intake completely open). The optimum efficiency that we publicize is the efficiency obtained according to the same test data, but for the low burn rate only. This efficiency is more realistic for a majority of users whose heating needs require that the unit be used to maximize burn times.
Does my heater qualify under the LEED program?
The Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design (LEED) Green Building Rating System™ encourages and accelerates global adoption of sustainable green building and development practices through the creation and implementation of universally understood and accepted tools and performance criteria. LEED is a third-party certification program and an internationally accepted benchmark for the design, construction and operation of high performance green buildings. It provides building owners and operators the tools they need to have an immediate and measurable impact on their buildings’ performance.
The Canadian Green Building Council (CGBC) certifies LEED projects. The Certification is based on the total point score achieved, following an independent review and an audit of selected Credits. With four possible levels of certification (certified, silver, gold and platinum), LEED® is flexible enough to accommodate a wide range of green building strategies that best fit the constraints and goals of particular projects. The Canadian rating systems are an adaptation of the US Green Building Council's (USGBC) LEED Green Building Rating System, tailored specifically for Canadian climates, construction practices and regulations. The rating systems are adapted to the Canadian market through an inclusive process that engages stakeholders and experts representing the various sectors of the Canadian industry.
Wood or pellet stoves, fireplaces, and inserts can qualify under LEED and obtain up to one point provided that they meet the following criteria.
Why doesn't my heater produce enough heat?
Possible causes and solutions:
1- The moisture content of your wood is too high.
Solution: Make sure you use good, seasoned wood. The wood you burn plays an important role in the overall performance of your heater. Your wood should have been properly dried for about one year. Furthermore, it is better to use hardwood, such as oak, maple, beech, or ash. For the same volume, hardwood will produce more heat. Storage is also very important. Wood that has been cut for one, two or even more years, will not necessarily be dry if it has been stored in poor conditions. Under extreme conditions, it may have rotted instead of drying. Smaller pieces of wood will dry faster. The wood should be stored in a place where the grass is not too long, and where the wind will be able to circulate between the logs. A 12-inch gap should be kept between the cords. The wood should be placed in the sunniest area and should be protected from the rain and snow on top, but not on the sides. Use a moisture reader to measure the moisture content of your wood. Ideally, it should be below 25%.
2- The air control mechanism is not open enough.
Solution: Adjust the air control mechanism in order to keep the flue temperature within the comfort zone (between 250 °F and 475 °F) on your chimney thermometer. The air control mechanism must always be closed gradually. You need to obtain a good bed of red embers and the logs must be completely lit up before you close the air control completely. This can easily take up to one hour.
3- The logs that you are using are too big.
Solution: Use smaller pieces of wood and place them to allow proper air circulation between the logs. The same weight of wood cut in many small pieces will produce more heat than fewer, larger logs. Only add big logs when you have a good bed of red embers. Logs with a diameter exceeding 6 inches should always be split. Avoid stacking logs to the top of the firebox.
4- The chimney draft is too weak.
Solution #2: Your heater may not have all the oxygen it needs to allow for a sufficient draft. You first need to ensure that the room where the heater is located is sufficiently large and well ventilated. Open the nearest window by approximately 2 inches. If you notice a significant improvement, it is a sign that the unit needs more oxygen. The room may be too insulated or too small. Without an additional source of oxygen, the draft will remain weak and cause the glass stay dirty.
Solution #4: Your exhaust system may be too restrictive or may lack a sufficient rise. Ideally, your exhaust system should not have more than one 90° elbow. Furthermore, all horizontal sections should be as short as possible and have a minimum slope of ¼" per foot.
If you have verified all the points mentioned above and your heater works fine, but still does not produce enough heat, you may be asking for more than what your appliance can realistically give you.
Stoves, fireplaces, and inserts are used for "zone heating”. It is normal that the heat is distributed unevenly inside your home. It will always be colder in the rooms that are distant from the heater. Furthermore, since heat rises, a heater located at the ground-floor level will not heat your basement.
Solution 6: It is possible to increase heat circulation between the floors by installing floor traps. The location of your heater is also important. Try to install it in a central location. If you want to heat both your basement and the ground floor, install your heater in the basement. The heat will rise to the upper floors. Verify that the area you try to heat respects your appliance’s heating capacity. Your appliance’s heating capacity can be found on the printed literature, in the owner’s manual, or in the technical data section on our web site. Keep in mind that your appliance's heating capacity assumes optimum conditions. It may be too low in situations where a house is poorly insulated, or highly exposed to wind. If you already have an appliance with a high heating capacity that works normally but does not heat enough, you probably need a central heating system, such as a warm air wood furnace.
Why does the fire go out when I close the loading door?
Possible causes and solutions:
1- The moisture content of your wood is too high.
Solution: Make sure you use good, seasoned cord wood. The wood you burn plays an important role in the overall performance of your heater. Your wood should have been properly dried for approximately one year. Storage is also key. Wood that has been cut for one, two or even more years will not necessarily be dry if it has been stored in poor conditions. Under extreme conditions, it may have rotten instead of drying. Smaller pieces of wood will dry faster. The wood should be stored in a place where the grass is not too long, and where the wind will be able to circulate between the logs. A 12-inch gap should be kept between the cords. The wood should be placed in the sunniest area and should be protected from the rain and snow on top, but not on the sides. Use a moisture reader to measure the moisture content of your wood. Ideally, it should be below 25%.
2- The air control mechanism is not open enough.
3- The logs that you are using are too big.
4- The chimney draft is too weak.
Solution #4: Your exhaust system may be too tortuous or may lack a sufficiently steep slope. Ideally, your exhaust system should not have more than one 90° elbow. Furthermore, all horizontal sections should be as short as possible and have a minimum slope of 1/4" per foot.
Why is the BTU according to EPA test data smaller than the one advertised?
You will notice a difference between the BTU output as per the EPA’s test data and what is advertised on our web site and/or product literature. The maximum BTU output we advertise is what will be obtained with a full load of seasoned cordwood inserted inside the firebox. The EPA output, on the other hand, is what has been obtained during emissions testing. The EPA test procedure requires that a special type of wood is used and positioned inside the firebox in a manner that does not represent the way the firebox volume would normally be utilized using seasoned cordwood. The EPA test load is typically much smaller. Hence, the BTU as per the EPA’s test data is reduced. The BTU output that should be considered by a normal user is the one we advertise for seasoned cordwood.
Will my insert work in the case of a power failure?
What burn time will I get from my wood heater?
The combustion time for an EPA or CSAB415.1-10 certified, non-catalytic wood appliance depends on many factors, the most important being the size of its firebox. Heaters with a 2.0 cubic foot firebox or more will normally have longer burn-times. From 6 to 8 hours is about the burn time you will get. Some companies will advertise longer burn times, but be careful, this calculation is made from the time you light the fire to the time there is absolutely no combustible left into the firebox. No matter what the appliance model is, the maximum BTU output will be obtained over approximately 33% of the total burn cycle. This represents 2 to 3 hours for a medium-size stove. So realistically, you will have to reload the unit every 3 or 4 hours in order to get the maximum heat out of your appliance when you are home. If you don’t reload the heater and let it burn the remaining fuel, your output will slowly decrease until there is no useful heat left to produce (we call this the “tail end” of the combustion cycle). This “tail end” will provide heat for another 4 to 5 hours. So if you are looking for a 6 to 8-hour burn time, make sure you choose an EPA or CSAB415.1-10 certified wood heater with a BTU output (using cordwood) of 60,000 BTU or more. Appliances with that kind of output all have fairly large fireboxes. If you are going to rely mostly on wood for heating and your house has more than 2,000 square feet, do not hesitate to choose one of our larger units (>85,000 BTU). Those appliances will have a burn time of approximately 8 to 10 hours.
What is the advantage of installing a wood insert into a masonry fireplace?
An insert is a specially designed appliance intended for installation into a masonry fireplace. Inserts are used to convert conventional masonry fireplaces into effective heating systems. The insert firebox is surrounded by an outer shell. Room air flows between the insert body and the outer shell where it is heated before being returned to the room by natural convection or transferred mechanically. Most of the heat is delivered to the room instead of being trapped behind the insert in the masonry structure. A decorative faceplate covers the space between the insert and the fireplace opening.
A Guide to Residential Wood Heating
Why does my wood insert blower not move a lot of air?
All of our inserts and blowers are designed to complement each other. It is a matter of achieving the greatest amount of heat transfer from the unit. The key is to design the insert so air can move and extract the greatest amount of heat without cooling the firebox and hindering the efficiency of the unit. If the blower velocity were to be increased, it would give the impression that the unit heats more. However, it would actually blow cooler air and reduce the unit's efficiency. A hot firebox will burn better and cleaner. A slower but hotter air displacement is therefore always preferable. The same principle applies to the heat sensor available on many models. It is better for the heat sensor to activate the blower later, when the unit is very hot, rather than activating it too early and blow cooler air when the unit is still completing its start-up phase.